At daybreak, sunset, any time of day, Wairarapa hills weave magic, hold history, exert charm. Unsettled claims before the Waitangi Tribunal detail disputes between Rangitane and Ngati Kahungunu. European settlers trekked from Wellington to farm these hills. Artists captured their lush colours in summer and their parched beauty in dreaded droughts.
Tucked in the shadow and downdraft of the Rimutakas, dumping ground for the excessive moisture of the Kapiti Coast, on the north shore of Lake Wairarapa, lies the small, blink-and-miss village of Featherston.